Mt. Shisha Pangma Expedition- Your 14th highest expedition in Nepal

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Mt. Shisha Pangma Expedition

Overview
Itinerary
Inc/Exc
Gears & Equipment

Shisha Pangma the 14th highest peak of the world is considered as one of the easiest 8000 M mountains to climb to its Central Summit (8013m), though the main summit (8027m) is quite technical and has not been climbed after 2013. Shisha Pangma is is located almost due north of Kathmandu entirely on the Tibetan side of the Himalaya. The peak is characterized by its long, steep, craggy southern face rising over 2000m, making it an imposing sight to all would be climbers. The Indian-Nepalese name for the peak is Gosaitan, which denotes “The Holy Place”. The Tibetan name for the mountain is Xixapangma. . It’s name literally translates to “The mountain overlooking the grassy plains”.

Shisha Pangma was the last of the 8000m peaks to be climbed. The first ascent is credited to Hsu Ching and his ten-man Chinese climbing team in 1964. The team was composed of Chang Chun-yen, Wang Fu-zhou, Chen San, Cheng Tien-liang,Wu Tsung-yue, Sodnam Doji, Migmar Trashi, Doji, Yonten. Shisha Pangma was finally opened to foreign teams in 1980. The first U.S. ascent took place in September 1983, via the mountains Northeast Face, by Mike Browning, Chris Pizzo and Glenn Porzak. By 2003, Shisha Pangma had only recorded 201 successful ascents (to the main summit) and 19 fatalities. As of January of 2000, over 434 people have successfully made the climb to the Central Summit, but only 165 people have continued to the Main Summit, just over an hours climb away, separated by a knife edge ridge of sometimes very unstable snow. This data was collected and published by Jan Kielowski.

Alex Lowe, one of America’s strongest and best-known climbers, died on Shisha Pangma after an avalanche struck on 26,291-foot October 5, 1999, also killed in the avalanche was cameraman David Bridges who was filming the ascent for a documentary. World reknown climber and friend of Lowe, Conrad Anker was also caught in the avalanche but survived.

The first winter ascent is credited to Simone Moro and Peter Morawsky who completed the ascent on the 14th of January 2005. Information on this climb can be found here.

Trip Information

Duration

36 Days

Arrival

Kathamandu

Max-Altitude

26,335 ft /8027

Itinerary

View remaining 9 Days

Includes

All arrival and departure transfer services to and from an international airport with other necessary surface transportation as per itinerary
Assistance at the international airport by our representative upon arrival and departure
6 nights request level of hotel accommodation in Kathmandu as per itinerary
Truck for expedition equipment from Kathmandu-Kerung-Kathmandu.
Land transportation from Kathmandu to shisha pangma Base camp and Shisha pangma base Camp to kathmandu
Chinese custom clearances at the border
Chinese Government Royalty for Shishapagma expedition for group and climbing Sherpa guide
Chinese visa for base camp staff, Sherpa and climbing group
1:1 Climbing Sherpa guide/client ratio
TMA or CTMA selected English speaking Chinese liaison officer and interpreter
All camping equipment in base camp and advanced base camp
Full board hotel in-route to Tibet: Lhasa, Tingri, Shigatse (B/L/D) provided by CTMA
Food during expedition period for expedition members and staff
Tibet Visa and travel permit for expedition crew
Expedition permit to climbing Shishapangma along the northwest ridge route
Permanent kitchen facilities at advanced base camp
All staff during the expedition period. This includes an experienced guide, base camp manager and other personnel as needed.
Ground transportation will be available as per itinerary
Cargo clearance duties assistance service free
Daily wages, equipment allowance & insurance for expedition staff
Solar panels for light and battery charging
High quality and durable personal tent at base camp and advanced base camp
Permanent kitchen and dining facilities at advanced base camp
Shower facility at base camp and advanced base camp
All necessary climbing hardware and ropes
High-quality meals at BC, ABC, higher camps. Freeze-dried meals on the climbing route
Hot drinks and beverages available24 hours a day during the climbing expedition
High-quality freeze-dried food for Sherpa and staff during the climbing period
2 oxygen bottles with mask and regulators (if requested by client)
We provide Sherpa’s tents, food for climbing, and insurance
Icefalls charges
All tents for the higher camps 1, 2, 3 ·
EPI gas and burners for cooking food above base camp
All wages, equipment, medical and accidental insurance for the chef, climbing Sherpa guide and base camp staff
All necessary camping equipment like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, kitchen tent, shower, toilet tents, etc
50kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period (carried by yak)
The truck will be provided at Kerung border crossing into Chinese base camp
Yaks carry the loads from Chinese base camp to middle camp to advanced base camp
Experienced, trained and government-licensed climbing guide(s) during the climbing period per person as per request
First aid medical kits for the group and the staff
Satellite phone carried by the guide. Available for clients at a cost of $3USD per minute
Appropriate high altitude food for all climbing staff at base camp and above as required
Emergency oxygen and mask regulator
All necessary paperwork, office service charge, and government taxes levied in Nepal
Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation, and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
Farewell dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure

Excludes

Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during the trekking
Items of personal nature, Laundry, expenses, tips
Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in government regulations, etc
Extra transportation that is not display in itinerary program
Any additional staff other than specified
Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses
Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required
Travel insurance and helicopter rescue
Walkies -talkies Filming permit (if special camera)
Personal climbing gear
Expenses incurred during usage of landlines, mobiles, walkies -talkies, satellite phone and internet
Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, camera/video fees or trekking gear
Nepal custom fees for import of expedition equipment
Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa guides as per Mountaineering Association rules. Minimum $1000.00USD per climbing Sherpa guide
Tips and gifts for base camp and high altitude trekking and climbing staff
Airfare of international flights
Nepal entry visa fee
Any extra services, products, offers or activities that are not mentioned in the itinerary
Any other item not included in “COST INCLUDES” section

Gears & Equipment

Download Gear List

Climbing Equipment

Summit Down Suit – 8000m. (Marmot / Mountain Hardware / North Face / Millet
Climbing Helmet
Crampons (Fit with Boot)/Packing Cover
Ice Axe with Spike & Axe Protector
Harness
Belay Devices/ Figure of 8/ ATC Guide
Jumar / Ascender
Lock Carabiner (3 Pcs)
Unlock Carabiner (3 Pcs)
Tape Slings 240 cm / Dynamic Cord 6mm (300 cm)
Snow Goggle (Summit Purpose, Antifog,Polarized, UV Protection)
Head Light 400-500 Lumens Spare Battery (Energizer Ultimate Lithium)
Walking Stick/ Trekking Pole
Pocket Knife (Swiss)
Pee Bottle

Head

Sun Cap
Desert Cap
Balaclava
Fleece Hat/Warm Hat (1-2 Pcs)
Neck Gaiter / Buff Mask(2 Pcs)

Upper Body

Thermal Top Base Layer (2 Pcs)
Fleece Jacket (1 Pcs)
Gore Tex Jacket (1 Pcs)
Down Jacket (1 Pcs)
Cotton T-Shirt (3 Pcs)
Wind Breaker /windproof jacket
Quick Dry T-Shirt (3-4 pcs) (*Full Sleeve T-shirt recommended)

Lower Body

Thermal Bottom Base Layer (2 Pcs)
Fleece Trouser (1pcs)
Gore Tex Pant (1 pcs)
Mid Weight Pants (1-2Pcs)
Light Weight Quick Dry Trekking Pants (2-3 Pairs)
Underwear(4-5 pcs)
Gaiters for trekking boots
Down Pants (1 pcs)

Hands

Thin Fleece Gloves (2 Pairs)
Wind Stopper / Screen Tap Gloves
Heavy Gloves (Guide Gloves)
Summit Gloves-8000m

Foot Wear

Normal Socks (5-6 Pairs)
Trekking Shoes/Hiking Boots (Gore Tex)
Slipper (1 Pair)
Camp Shoes (1 pair)
Summit Socks (2 pcs)
Summit Boots – 8000m (Double layered boot) (Lasportiva/ millet/ scarpa)

Sleeping Stuffs

Sleeping Bag -40 °C (Extreme Comfort)
Sleeping Bag -20 °C to -30 °C (for Base Camp)
Liners for Sleeping Bag
Thermarest Mattress (Cell Foam)

Bag Packs

Rucksacks 50L – 65L (Day Bag)
Water Proof Stuff Sacks/Dry BagSmall/ Medium/ Large (3-4 Pcs)

Sun Stuffs

Banana Boat/ Nivea Sun Cream (-50 Spf)
Lip Guard 30-50 (Spf)
Sun Glasses (Uv Protection)

Eating & Drinking

1 Ltr. Water Bottle
1/ 1.5 Ltr. Thermos

Toiletries

Toilet Paper / Wet Tissue
Toothbrush &Toothpaste
Soap/ Shampoo
Towel

Miscellaneous

Nail Cutter
Umbrella / Rain Coat
Hot Water Bag(Optional)
Power bank (Back up battery)
Trekking poles-1 pair
Hand & Toe Warmer

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