Mt.Kanchenjunga Expedition (8,586)- Third highest expedition in the world.

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Mt.Kanchenjunga Expedition

Overview
Itinerary
Inc/Exc

Kangchenjunga is third highest mountain in the world, and the most easterly of the 8000 meter peaks of the Himalaya. The name means Five Treasures of the Great Snow, a reference to its five summits. The name is also spelled Kanchenjunga, but according to the Himalayan Journal article, people who know the Tibetan language strongly insist that the ‘g’ should be there.

The huge massif of Kangchenjunga is buttressed by great ridges running roughly due east to west and north to south, forming a giant ‘X’. These ridges contain a host of spectacular 6-7000 meter peaks. On the East Ridge in Sikkim, is Siniolchu (22,600′ / 6888m), regarded as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. The west ridge culminates in the magnificent Jannu (25,294′ / 7710m) with its imposing north face. To the south, clearly visible form Darjeeling, is Kabru (24,002′ / 7,316 m). The north ridge contains The Twins and Tent Peak, and runs up to the Tibetan border by the Jongsong La, a 20,080′ (6,120 m) pass.

Kangchenjunga does not have an “easy” route as the threat of avalanche is high. Since it is in the eastern Himalaya it receives the brunt of the monsoon moisture. The summit is considered sacred by the people of Sikkim. Early expeditions that climbed the mountain stopped a few feet from the top to respect this belief

First Ascent. In 1955 Charles Evans, who was in the first team to reach the South Summit of Everest in 1953, led another British expedition to the Yalung face, setting base camp in April. They avoided the huge lower icefall by climbing to the west of a prominent buttress and over a feature they named The Hump. They crossed an upper icefall, and set Camp 4 at the Great Shelf, a goal of the 1955 expedition. They continued, now on the east side of the glacier up a ramp called The Gangway. This allowed them to pass a curved cliff known as the Sickle, and Camp 6 was established at 26,900′ (8,199 m). On May 25, Joe Brown and George Band made the first ascent of Kangchenjunga, with Brown leading Very Severe (5.7-5.8) rock climbing. Norman Hardie and Tony Streather summit the next day, but they find a snow ramp and avoid the difficult rock. Respecting the wishes of the people of Sikkim, all parties leave the least few steps to the summit untrodden.

Trip Information

Duration

60 Days

Max-Altitude

8586m

Itinerary

View remaining 9 Days

Includes

All arrival and departure transfer services to and from KTM international airport with other necessary transport as per itinerary
5 night hotel accommodation in Kathmandu on B/B basis
Domestic Flight Kathmandu to Bhadhrapur and Kathmandu
Experienced and government licensed trekking and climbing Sherpa guide during the trekking and climbing period
Appropriate number of porters during the trekking period
Land transportation from Bhadhrapur-Taplejung- Taplejung- Bhadhrapur for all climbing members, Sherpa guide, liaison officer and kitchen staff
Accommodation storage tent, dining tent, client tents, toilet tents, tables, chairs and cooking utensils for base camp
Common climbing equipment such as: Rope, ice bars, ice screws, and snow bar
3 meals a day: Breakfast, lunch and dinner with tea/coffee
Accommodation at hotel/lodge/guest house or tent camps during the trekking period
All camping accommodation for members and staff during trekking and climbing period. You will be sharing sleeping quarters with one other member
All food and fuel for base camp and higher camps during the climbing period
50kg baggage allowance per person during the trekking period. This will be carried by porters/mules
Services of chef and kitchen assistant at advance base camp
Trekking Permit (Kanchenjunga Conservation entry fee)
TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System)
Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal government to climb Mt.Kanchenjunga
Nepalese Government Royalty
One experienced, trained, government licensed and summiteer climbing guide (Sherpa) per person
All wages, equipment, medical and accident insurances for all involved staffs during the trekking and climbing period
Helicopter rescue insurance for all involved expedition staff
Medical consultation services at the base camp with the HRA clinic at base camp
Equipment allowances and wages for climbing Sherpas, cooks, kitchen assistant and government liaison officer
First aid medical kits for the group and the staff
Satellite phone carried by guide for communication. Available to clients at a cost of $3USD per minute
Appropriate high altitude food for all clients and staff at base camp and above as required
Required fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period
The heater will be provided at the base camp for the dining tent
Emergency oxygen mask and regulator provided upon request of the client with requirement appropriate charge
Each client will have an individual tent available in the Annapurna first advanced base camp
Solar panel for light and electronics charging
All tents for camp 1, 2 and 3. Icefall charges
6 Bottles (8L) of Oxygen will be provided for each member
The latest model of Summit or Top out system mask and regulators will be provided
We provide Sherpa’s tents, food for climbing and insurance
Free assistance service for cargo clearance and duties
EPI cooking gas and stove will be provided in camp 1,2, 3, 4 for cooking food
The generator will be providing to back-up the lighting in base camp
Transportation of food supply from Kathmandu to base camp by porter/mules
Company service charge and government taxes levied in Nepal
Farewell dinner in Kathmandu

Excludes

Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, or any other food consumed beyond the prescribed breakfast, lunch and dinner
Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones and internet expenses
Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking gear
Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc
Transportation services includes only what is listed on the itinerary. Any extra distance travelled will be appropriately charged
Any additional staff other than specified
Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses
Medical insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required
Travel insurance and helicopter rescue
Walkie-talkies
Filming permit (if you have a special camera)
Personal climbing gear
Nepal custom duty for import of expedition equipment
Items of personal nature, laundry expenses, tips
Summit bonus minimum $100.00USD per climbing Sherpa guide
Tips, gifts, souvenirs
Airfare of international flights
Nepal entry visa fee (Visa insurance is easy upon arrival)
Any extra services, products, offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” section

Gears & Equipment

Download Gear List

Climbing Equipment

Summit Down Suit – 8000m. (Marmot / Mountain Hardware / North Face / Millet
Climbing Helmet
Crampons (Fit with Boot)/Packing Cover
Ice Axe with Spike & Axe Protector
Harness
Belay Devices/ Figure of 8/ ATC Guide
Jumar / Ascender
Lock Carabiner (3 Pcs)
Unlock Carabiner (3 Pcs)
Tape Slings 240 cm / Dynamic Cord 6mm (300 cm)
Snow Goggle (Summit Purpose, Antifog,Polarized, UV Protection)
Head Light 400-500 Lumens Spare Battery (Energizer Ultimate Lithium)
Walking Stick/ Trekking Pole
Pocket Knife (Swiss)
Pee Bottle

Head

Sun Cap
Desert Cap
Balaclava
Fleece Hat/Warm Hat (1-2 Pcs)
Neck Gaiter / Buff Mask(2 Pcs)

Upper Body

Thermal Top Base Layer (2 Pcs)
Fleece Jacket (1 Pcs)
Gore Tex Jacket (1 Pcs)
Down Jacket (1 Pcs)
Cotton T-Shirt (3 Pcs)
Wind Breaker /windproof jacket
Quick Dry T-Shirt (3-4 pcs) (*Full Sleeve T-shirt recommended)

Lower Body

Thermal Bottom Base Layer (2 Pcs)
Fleece Trouser (1pcs)
Gore Tex Pant (1 pcs)
Mid Weight Pants (1-2Pcs)
Light Weight Quick Dry Trekking Pants (2-3 Pairs)
Underwear(4-5 pcs)
Gaiters for trekking boots
Down Pants (1 pcs)

Hands

Thin Fleece Gloves (2 Pairs)
Wind Stopper / Screen Tap Gloves
Heavy Gloves (Guide Gloves)
Summit Gloves-8000m

Foot Wear

Normal Socks (5-6 Pairs)
Trekking Shoes/Hiking Boots (Gore Tex)
Slipper (1 Pair)
Camp Shoes (1 pair)
Summit Socks (2 pcs)
Summit Boots – 8000m (Double layered boot) (Lasportiva/ millet/ scarpa)

Sleeping Stuffs

Sleeping Bag -40 °C (Extreme Comfort)
Sleeping Bag -20 °C to -30 °C (for Base Camp)
Liners for Sleeping Bag
Thermarest Mattress (Cell Foam)

Bag Packs

Rucksacks 50L – 65L (Day Bag)
Water Proof Stuff Sacks/Dry BagSmall/ Medium/ Large (3-4 Pcs)

Sun Stuffs

Banana Boat/ Nivea Sun Cream (-50 Spf)
Lip Guard 30-50 (Spf)
Sun Glasses (Uv Protection)

Eating & Drinking

1 Ltr. Water Bottle
1/ 1.5 Ltr. Thermos

Toiletries

Toilet Paper / Wet Tissue
Toothbrush &Toothpaste
Soap/ Shampoo
Towel

Miscellaneous

Nail Cutter
Umbrella / Rain Coat
Hot Water Bag(Optional)
Power bank (Back up battery)
Trekking poles-1 pair
Hand & Toe Warmer

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